Pumped/"Power" Showers
The second word is in quotes because it is misleading: one could argue that
category (2) is a power shower as it uses electricity, and it is also being
abused by the marketeers because "power shower" seems to imply
"excellent shower" in the minds of the public. What we are talking
about here is a shower containing an electric pump, to boost the pressure, and
therefore, if the supply is capable of it, the flow rate. Power showers are
easier to wire than type (2) because they only need a low current supply for the
motor, which consumes perhaps 500W or less.
Pumped showers MUST be fed from a cistern - i.e. you cannot use them with
combination boilers, Megaflos, multipoints, etc. Quite apart from the fact that
it is against water regulations to pump from the water main, you are unlikely to
achieve much by trying to do this, because if its resistance. Pumped showers are
usually only really needed when a cistern is employed anyway.
Pumped showers are less likely to suffer from temperature variations than
conventional showers. They can produce copious amounts of water with a lot of
force: high pressure, and high flow rate. They often come with shower heads that
can produce varying spray patterns and mix air with the water. They can be
extremely wasteful: it is drummed into one that a shower takes less water than a
bath, and it is possible to be blissfully unaware that this may no longer be the
case with such a beast!
The simplest pumped shower is a device which you screw to the wall and
connect between your existing mixer and shower head with flexible hoses. It has
an on/off switch, and the shower will still function with it switched off, as
the pump chanber does not present much resistance.
More sophisticated models include a mixer within the case, and are plumbed
permanently into low pressure hot and cold supplies. They usually have a
combined on-off switch and mechanical flow rate control, and may vary the speed
of the motor.
More sophisticated still are the separate pumps. The cheap ones connect to
the mixed water the expensive ones have two chambers which connect to the hot
and cold supplies. They may be used with manual or thermostatic valves.
Cavitation and air in pumped showers
The nearer the pump is to the supplies, the better it will operate (and
obviously a two-chamber pump can be put nearer to the supply). This is because a
pump may be capable of producing a very high pressure, but can only
"suck" at one atmosphere before a vacuum is created and performance
will not increase. Even before this, "cavitation" (tiny vacuum or
dissolved air bubbles) will start at the impeller blades, and this is very bad
for the pump. Water from the rising main contains dissolved air, and heating it
up encourages it to liberate this. It is therefore a good idea to connect a
shower pump to a hot water cylinder with a "Surrey flange" or an
"Essex flange", which has a short dip-tube to avoid trapping the
liberated air rolling up the sides of the cylinder. (A Surrey flange fits into
the top of the cylinder and has an additional output for the existing
connections an Essex flange is a dip-tube only and goes into a new hole made in
the cylinder.) Surrey/Essex flanges will also help to avoid interaction between
the pump and other hot water consumers.
A shower pump should not be installed at a high point in the system: trapped
air will be difficult to expel, and, in a worst case, the pump may not operate
at all as it is not self-priming: i.e. it cannot pump air.